Salumeria Rosi

A crush of people filled the narrow entrance of Salumeria Rosi this afternoon. They were craning their necks to catch a glimpse of the counter, which displayed prosciutto bread, purple cauliflower salad and Taleggio cheese. It took me a minute to differentiate between the eat-in and take-out lines. Once I figured this out, it took many more minutes to actually be seated. I watched as two tables were set, one was reset, and a table of three was reseated at a table more to their liking. Finally, the host (whom I suspect was irritated with me because of my apparent impatience) waved me, menuless, towards the bar.

Fortunately, once I did sit down, the kitchen was as fast as wildfire. Everything I ordered arrived in quick succession - and it was impossible not to order a whole host of items, as there's such a delightful variety at Salumeria Rosi. There are house-cured meats, goat, cow and sheep's milk cheeses, salads and various small plates.

First I went for the salumi and cheese, ordering the Parmigiano Reggiano and some porchetta toscana. A basket of crusty bread came with the dishes. Several chunks of sweet-salty hard cheese arrived on a balsamic-drizzled little plate. The two paper-thin slices of porchetta were redolent of rosemary and as tender as toro sashimi. I was glad for the lemony shredded endive salad that arrived afterwards (I recommend it as a palate cleanser).

Then it was time for sweet butternut squash risotto, which was absolutely wonderful. Crushed amaretti were sprinkled over a creamy orange expanse of butternut squash puree, which contained plump grains of Arborio rice. The portion size was perfect.

I really should have quit while I was ahead, but the dessert menu called to me. I settled on the torta di mele, which was light as air between its soft apple slices. A dollop of real whipped cream was served on the side. I finished the meal with a nice strong cup of espresso.

Good things come to those who wait!

Salumeria Rosi: 283 Amsterdam Ave., (212) 877-4800.